WJEC Art and Design: Textiles - A level component 1 - Marked A* Summer 2020
All the clothing in this collection represents numerous skills that have been developed and refined throughout the project. I have combined techniques and ideas together to form various garments that portray how contemporary clothing can still be produced sustainably, responsibly and affordably. There are also visual aspects communicating the consequences of climate change within the form of decorative techniques. These are widely inspired by the imagery I collected of local natural forms, effected by changes in atmospheric conditions. I aimed to create basic garments, that were timeless, rather than following temporary trends (that contribute to the fast fashion problem). Some are also multi-functional so the garment can be worn more often and have more purpose – helping to extend the life of the item.
“- contemporary clothing can still be produced sustainably, responsibly and affordably.”
The collection consists of: two tops, two belts, a skirt, a dress, trousers and a bag. The products consist of various materials, including: repurposed cotton, sustainably produced cork fabric, handmade vegan leather, repurposed plastic, handmade bioplastic, repurposed artificial leather and waste fabric.
Man-made tyre tracks influenced me to create a textile representation of repetitive vertical line. I communicated this representation through the use of waste fabric and white bioplastic.
For the waste fabric adaptaion, I developed various manipulation techniques, this lead me to a repeated pattern of stitching through the centre of individual pieces. Waste fabric is usually found within small scraps so cutting narrow strips meant that I didn’t need to source large pieces of fabric. Using small peices of fabric meant that I wasn't limited for choices so I picked out earthy toned fabrics. The dress also has been repurposed, it has been layered and ironed to create a thicker composition. The addition of plastic amongst the waste fabric and black (cork fabric) adjustable straps, add a contemporary edge to the dress (above). It can also be tucked in to make a skirt with adjustable length.
Dress idea development and final design.
Skirt idea development and final design
Inspired by Birch tree bark and previous vertical line manipulations, I made samples of white bioplastic with different shaping techniques. I decided to dye the bioplastic white to not only incorporate the influence from the Birch tree, but also add a contemporary sense of simplicity to the collection. Also, I felt that the simple colour would allow the intricate texture to stand out but not distract from other detailed materials in the collection. For example, the top waistband of the skirt is constructed from this material, despite detailed texture, it doesn't distract from the other materials. Instead it provides a stand out contrast with the silver and black, all colours harmonise together to produce a modern statement skirt.
The technique for creating the bioplastic material was derived from gelatine based versions that I discovered in a selection of other designers work. Experimentation helped me to achieve the flexible yet durable consistency. I used natural chalk as a natural
dye and I think this also played a role in the overall texture of the material.
Skirt styled with oversized shirt
The skirt has a reversible zip at the front which allows it to be turned inside out to reveal the silver side of the material. To make this, I painted a mixture of powdered alluminium, printing paste and water onto each of the panels. After they had dried I was left with individual panels with a black and a silver side. I machine stitched field markings that I noticed on the orignial image and arranged the panels in a irregular composition to fit the shape of the skirt. I think that the overall arrangement of the panels and the white edging at the top immitates modern style that overides what is steriotypical of basic sustainably produced fashion.
Although the pattern on the skirt was influenced by the field markings, I still wanted to created my own repeated pattern. Therefore I created a basic outline from a map and decided to incorporate this onto the hem of the trousers.
I used cotton from old bed sheets and hand dyed the material green. I thought it would be necessary to include the colour green due to the influence of green fields. To illustrate the pattern I used the free-stitch foot on the machine with dark green thread. I made box pleates to contribute the flare style of the wide leg trousers.
The surface design inspiration for the trousers uses the same concept as the dress, due to the vertical strips of fabric. The dress had repurposed plastic strips; I have incorporated this into the trousers, alternating with repurposed cotton. To achieve the silver coating on the cotton, I used the same metallic coating technique as I did on the skirt. This resulted in a contemporary pattern with unusual transparent and light reflecting properties. The trousers also have hidden alluminium snap fasteners at the front and repurposed plastic belt loops for a more desired fit.
To summerise why I decided to involve metallic finishes into the collection, it was because of the images of flooding that I collected, in the middle of the project. This relates to the project due to it being a physical effect of increasingly harsh weather conditions in my local area. To communicate this through a textile perspective, I decided to portray it through a light reflecting finish and this is why some aspects of the garments have silver elements.
Artist research and response page
The surface technique on the bandeau top was inspired by landscape textile artist Alison Corfield.
I used free motion machine stitch to illustrate an image of crops damaged by flooding onto repurposed cotton. To produce the green and white ombre effect on the base of the top, after hand dying the cotton green, I painted the top half of the material with bleach. This technique achieved a subtle tie dye affect that is modern and helped aspects in the landscape, such as the sky, to stand out more.
The back of the top has a white ribbon corset fastening to ensure a desired fit.
Final samples page (Bandeau and Trousers)
The shoulder bag is mainly made from repurposed white cotton. However, the front and back sections are covered with crinkled white bioplastic (leftover from skirt trim). The crinkle textured surface reminded me of the rough texture of the ground in my local area. I think this image reflects unusually harsh weather conditions (relating to the theme of changing climate), which inspired me to scrunch the material and create a crinkly texture.
I used left over cork fabric from the top and belts to make the strap and piping on the bag. I think the earthy tone adds themes of natural forms to the bag and the contrasting white panels bring a sense of modernization.
Also, the white allows the texture of the material and white leaves to stand out.
The photograpghs at the start of the development in the project included images of leaves from endangered tree species.
Whilst developing the idea of incorporating leaf outlines and shapes into my designs, I found that stitching into dissolvable fabric created 3D leaf motifs.
I returned to this technique during the final design process however,in the end I decided including the motifs onto a bag would be most suitable.The leaves are white to match the contemporary style.
The page on the right shows some bioplastic material development, starting to implicate the colour green into the collection and leaf motif sampling.
Both belts showcase the animal print pattern that I designed. I then laser cut the outline onto black and biege cork fabric.
The main threat to the Margay (Leopard species) is habitat destruction through deforestation, as a result of large amounts of the Amazon being cleared for agriculture and road building. I took photos of the endangered animal at Edinburgh Zoo, aiming to collect images of animal print for pattern in the collection. I altered the image to expose the outline of the spots and then I used this to influence my own continuous pattern.
The first belt consists of a repurposed cotton base and the black cork leopard pattern was then stitched on top to create a two layered tie belt. I then used some leftover beige cork fabric cut outs and stuck them inside some of the holes.
The second belt has a base made out of left over black vegan leather (used for skirt). I layered and stitched these together and then attatched the beige cork leopard pattern on top. The leather was too stiff to tie so I added ribbon for the fastening of the belt.
I also laser cut a large version of the pattern out onto the beige cork fabric; I used this to make another top.
The top has two repurposed cotton panels that connect to either side of a white ribbon fastening at the back and the top can be tightened with a belt. This can be tied at the back and it features subtle stitched ridges going across; this links in with the continuous line pattern (seen on the dress and trousers) and provides a subtle, simplistic aspect to the top.
All the garments in the collection fit together to portray a modern outlook on sustainable clothing; showcasing different techniques and visual influences from natural forms, affected by abnormal weather conditions.
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